Tuesday, 28 January 2025

Switch to Shotcut

Over Christmas I bought a laptop. At my day job, it's all Dells, mostly Latitudes, and because I'm so used to them, and they are business grade and thus pretty reliable, I used them at home too. But I don't buy them new, whoa, too expensive! So I buy all the computers in my household through online auctions. I watch and wait for a sublot of ex-company fleet Dell Latitudes, and then I bid on the best one(s). My experience has been that most people feel "safe" to buy one middle of the road but not many aim to bid on the best one. Well I "went crazy" and won the best one in the lot for $AUD508 (2024). It is a 12th gen i7 with 32GB RAM, 1TB NVMe, 15" touch screen and even has an MX550 graphics card - not that I play games on it...but maybe that will help with encoding video and audio. In comparison, there were quite a few 10th gen 17, 16GB RAM, 512 NVMe, only onboard graphics...and they went for around $400 each. To me the extra $100 is well spent!

I stuck with Windows 10, I'm just not ready for Windows 11 even though there are plenty of computers at my day job with it. Interestingly it was a painful install process, because the computer was too new (only 1.5 years old) and the old installer have any compatible internet connectivity drivers! I had to do some hackery to get it on the network to complete the installation. But now, wow, computer so fast! A Reaper audio render takes less than a third the time!

I'm not one to do an upgrade/sync settings, I am a start from scratch kinda guy every time. It makes the initial install take a bit longer, but you only put back on what you need. After several years with a computer you have quite often filled it with stuff you never use and all the drivers/stuff that came with it, slowing your system down. I will first put on my usual favourite software, but even then, I will look at upgrading or changing at the same time.

When it came to my usual video editing software, Power Director, I was still on version 16 which is from a long time ago. I looked up the latest version and I could get a perpetual license for around $AUD180 (2024) which I found a little steep. If they could have kept it under $100 I would have jumped in without thinking. Instead I looked around - one of the guys at work mentioned a video editor "Shotcut" which is an open source and free so I looked it up.

Now one of the issues I have with video editing software is that waaay back in the 90's I learnt "Ulead Studio" and understood its workflow quite well. When I later looked at Adobe and the other big players, the workflow was different and I never really got it. Power Director was the closest in operation to Ulead Studio, hence I went with that.

Shotcut seemed to be similarly built, the only thing the internet reviewers seemed to be saying about it was "steep learning curve". I decided to see how I would go on my latest video for YouTube.

Straight out the gate it had a very familiar style of operation. Because my videos are pretty straight forward, just text, fades, crop and resize, audio substitution, it should be easy. And it was! Armed with a chatbot to talk me through operation, I finished the video and maybe only spent an hour getting used to the different process and workflow. Some of it, particularly "Filters", is better than Power Director - it feels conceptually more like Reaper which I'm quite used to now. I really appreciated that.

As for steep learning curve, well, no. I found it easy to learn and navigate, only a few foreign concepts. I took notes while learning, so next video should be just as fast as if I was using my trusty old software.

I was slightly disappointed it was unable to use my fancy Nvidia graphics card, it was doing most things on the main CPU, but it was using a lot of cores so that's better than only using one. And with the new laptop it was fast enough, around 5-6 mins to render a 3 minute video. I can live with that. Especially at the price.

Thanks Shotcut devs, keep up the good work!

Tuesday, 21 January 2025

What's happening Jan 2025

I managed to record only one song over the Christmas break, but I made two versions, one with a drum track https://youtu.be/2NHKErdw0HQ, the other without https://youtu.be/QpbUkUUNzBE. I was reasonably happy with my play through - 3 takes, using the last take with a few fixes from the first take. When I listen to it I can hear where I'd gone off beat and then re-tracked back on, but it isn't too bad - practice with metronomes and drum tracks does actually work!

I wondered what the internet would think - I posted the drum track first and then without second, thinking that without is my normal syle and that would be my most recent video. The Algorithm however picked up the drum track version and boosted it and it got a lot more views. I noticed that the feedback from viewers seems to be "yeah, nah" (translation: I understand what you did there, I appreciate it, but, I prefer the other one.) Since I had made 5 drum tracks over Christmas, when I got back to work I played them for some people and it further reinforced it - nobody preferred the drum track. My drummer mate said "drums were okay" but "drum tracks are cheesy", another said "if you are going to play acoustic, leave the drum track behind.

So, slightly peturbed, I am still playing along with them to improve my tempo, but not as enthusiastic as I was.

In other news, all the parts for the bass guitar build came in, and construction began! It is currently at a stage where it is assembled, unpainted, with strings at tension, but no pickup. I'm a bit perplexed, the shape of the neck seems slightly wrong. right at the end of the fretboard it seems to slightly pop out, meaning I need to set the action higher than I want to prevent buzzing. I've done quite a few adjustments, I'm letting it settle, I definitely need to file down the nut, but I still can't quite work out what is going on with the end of the fretboard. The manufacturers did a great job on the last neck I had made, so I can't see them as having got it wrong?

We will see! I will finish it, I've put too much time and money into it to not to, but I will be disappointed if I can't get it how I want it!

Meanwhile, I put some new strings on the Esteve. They we very mellow and dull sounding on my last recording...

I will keep practising, next song to record in a couple of weeks is "Feels Like We Only Go Backwards" and after that "Fly Like an Eagle".  I'm really looking forward to the latter, I'm very happy with my arrangement of that.

JAW

Sunday, 29 December 2024

Reaper, you've done it again. ReaSamplOmatic5000.

As I mentioned earlier I decided to make some drum tracks to play along with for my fingerstyle arrangements, equally to improve my tempo and equally to make them more engaging to audiences. I've played with drummers many times over the years, solo fingerstyle, it makes sense. Solo fingerstyle already incorporates a bassline so don't need a bassist, it incorporates a melody so don't need a singer, it incorporates a rhythm so don't need a rhythm guitarist are out...there's some but not a lot of percussion so drummers are a good fit! I've talked about playing with drummers many times as far back as 2009 and 2010 and at an open night a decade ago not to mention a gig I did this very year at work with my mate Geoff.

I'm not a very good drummer. I own an entry level electric drum kit, a Yamaha DTX Explorer, I dabbled a bit years ago, decided drumming is best left to drummers. But I've always had a love for the drums and how they fit with guitars, and it goes right back. Let my wax nostalgically for a moment.

In the mid 80's I was a Commodore 64 nut. It's where I learnt to program - C64 basic and even hand coded 6502 assembler. Musically, there were a few programs I used on it, one was "Funky Drummer". I would make drum loops and play along with them endlessly. Sadly no recordings of that exist anymore...I do have a few cassette tapes with various stuff on it, perhaps one day I will stand up a cassette player and see if I can find any!

In the mid-late 90's a mate of mine at work introduced me to the DOS multi-track sequencer "Impulse Tracker" which was a whole new level of drum machine, with actual drum samples! I had a lot of fun with that. That eventually gave way to "Modplug Tracker", being Windows based, but I never enjoyed it quite as much. I wrote several original songs in the late 90's early 2000's during the time I was getting more into arranging fingerstyle covers. Fingerstyle had always been my first love, but I had a fun experimental "full band" period of time which ended around 2001.

Impulse Tracker ModPlug Tracker

Yes, recordings exist from that era...I need to find the masters and remix them...one day. I've never shared any here before, I'm not sure why - possibly because they just aren't any good - but why not. Have a listen to these badly mixed songs I wrote - using Impulse Tracker, my electric guitar, bass and some vocals. Ask me if you want me to talk more about songs from my distant past :-)

Blue Metal:
Sheister Meister:

Which brings me back to the topic of the day, making drum tracks. I'm not going to revive any of that old software, but I have my DAW Reaper, and I have Kenny Gioia, The Legendary Reaperian of Lore. He showed me the FX called "ReaSamplOmatic5000", which is EXACTLY what a sample tracker in the context of Reaper should look like. Good job Repearians. It took me a while to get my head around it, but it is just what I needed. Essentially using MIDI to track samples, making it the drum machine sequencer I loved from my youth. I've already churned out a backing drum track for "Wish You Were Here". What really makes ReaSamplOmatic5000 special for me is that I can us my little AKAI MPK mini mk3 MIDI device as a drum trigger - OR - I can use my Yamaha DTX Explorer as an actual kit through my PreSonus interface to record the drum hits, when I have drummer in the house. Or even, olde school, just click away in the MIDI editor and make them all like I did when I was a kid.

So nice. I've got my WAVBVKERY vintage kit drum samples, I will need to look for others for the various songs I do - but the 70's Ludwig is a great starting point . It will take some time, but it will be good to make these drum backing tracks.

JAW's guide to using ReaSamplOmatic based on Kenny G's tutorials

References: Youtube 1 Youtube 2

Note for Windows OS: In Options->Preferences Device, if you are just using your computer soundcard, then don't use DirectSound, it is gross and laggy. You could use ASIO (either the one that came with your MIDI controller or ASIO4All) but the driver takes over windows sounds so you wan't be able to listen to youtube/music/etc. A good option however is WASAPI, which is Microsoft's answer to ASIO. If you use it in Exclusive mode it is pretty close to ASIO, but then you may as well use ASIO. In Shared mode it is quite good - not too laggy, and you can listen to Youtube at the same time. Change your Block size to be low for low latency, but high enough that you aren't hearing crunchiness.

  • Make a new track called Drums. Set it to Record, set the Input to MIDI, All Channels.
  • Right mouse click Input, Track Recording Setting, turn on Quantise to 16th notes.
  • Right mouse click Input again, set Record MIDI to Overdub. That way each pass just adds drums.
  • Make another track called "Kick". Add the FX ReaSamplOmatic5000.
  • In the ReaSamplOmatic5000 drag in a Kick Drum sample. The View->MediaExplorer is a great way to browse your sample library, when you have found the one you like, drag it into the waveform window.
  • Set the Note start and note end to both be the MIDI number for your target MIDI note. It's a good idea to turn on View->Virtual Keyboard so you can see what number/what is happening.
  • Set Min vol to -inf if you are using a touch sensitive (velocity) MIDI trigger. If you are just using your computer keyboard, not really an issue, it's only on/off
  • Make sure the Mode is set to Sample (Ignores MIDI note).
  • Route your Drums track to the Kick track by dragging the routing icon from one to the other. Set Audio to Off, you only want to route MIDI.

You are now at a stage where you have a MIDI track to record your MIDI triggers, it passes the MIDI down to a drum track, the drum track listens out for the one specific MIDI note and then plays the sample when it gets it. You can add other normal FXs to it, adjust faders, panning, etc, like a normal track.

A few other tips/tricks:

  • Obviously, add a track per drum type!
  • You can include multiple samples per track, for instance I will have a "Hat" track, and it will include an open and close hat sample.
  • In the case of an open hat which rings out, you can make it stop ringing if another hat strike is made. Add an FX "JS: MIDI Choke", set the Choke Note Range Start to the the MIDI note that you want to kill the ringing drum, set the Affected Note Range Start to the MIDI note of the ringing drum. In the ringing drum, set "Obey note-offs" to true. Now, if you trigger an open hat, then a moment later trigger a closed hat, the open hat sample will stop ringing, so more like a real drum kit.
  • When in the MIDI editor, setting to "Named Notes" view is nicer, and double right click on a note to name it.
  • You can change the Grid size in the MIDI editor in the drop down box at the bottom of the window.
  • If you need a different time signature, for example there is a 2/4 bar, then right click on the bar in the main window, Insert Time Signature/Tempo Marker, set it to your new time signature, and then repeat the proces in the next bar to change it back to the previous timing.

Sunday, 15 December 2024

What's happening December 2024

I'm mucking around with a number of musical stuff at the moment!

On the fingerstyle arrangement front, I am polishing, practising, and getting a few ready for recording over Christmas. It's been a while since I recorded an arrangement, I'm looking forward to getting some done. After around a year of mixing and learning about the DAW Reaper I have a slightly different perspective on recording, I might even start to sound a bit professional in the future - Watch this space!

In other news I have recorded a song from my teenage daughter's "girl band"...they are the quintessential power trio, Lyds is the singer/songwriter/guitarist front person, my Naomi is singer/bassist and Jess is the drummer. I'm thinking "Cream" with Clapton/Bruce/Baker, but they were well before even my time, so maybe "Nirvana" is slightly more contemporary, but I don't think Krist ever sang? Anyway.

I got them to record one of their originals to a click track. Mostly because all I *had* was a two channel mixer. Recorded stereo drums, then guitar and bass, then two vocals. It took several hours, it was like herding cats...they are 15&16 year old teenage girls. I later put together a mix, it took most of my effort just doing audio quantisation on the drums and the bass. Because the song is punchy, it needed to be super-tight and it wasn't. The vocals and the distorted electric guitar were okay - the guitar was not punchy so slightly out timing is not noticeable. The girls have been singing together for a while so they matched in nicely. And besides when vocals are leading or training a beat, well, that's "expression" :-)

Two things came out of that session. First is that recording with only two channels is not enough. In a fortuitous set of circumstance, while chatting about it to one of my mates at work who has been creating music for years, he said "Oh I have an old PreSonus with 8 channels, I'm upgrading to a Focus-Right, do you want to buy it off me?" So I have a PreSonus Studio 18|24 USB sitting in front of me that I need to get familiar with.

The other thing to come out of that session is I recorded electric drums as a stereo channel straight from my drum machine. I felt helpless mixing it. I'm now quite used to mixing an analogue kit with 7 mics on it, and I love the flexibility. In the stereo mix the snare sound was not at all what I wanted. I ended up putting a sample on top of it for all the hits of the snare, that was tedious. I know that my drum machine can act as a midi trigger, I even bought a midi cable for it a while ago, just haven't used it. The PreSonus has a midi interface, so I need to get familiar with that, I need to go back to glorious multi tracked drums.

So as if all that is not enough, I have been playing a bit more often to a metronome. I still dislike them, but as far as being a useful all round musician, you need to be able to play super tight to a click. But recently, I had switched to a drum beat instead of a metronome. It is less like being constantly hit in the brain with a stick. I've found it almost pleasant. The problem is, not every drumbeat suits every song. So I thought "why don't I use a drum machine app where I can save each beat, and the tempo, and recall it when needed?" Not to mention not having to remember a tempo I like to play each song as. While looking for something that could do this, I found that most apps that will do what I want are cut down-DAWs, rich in features, of stuff I don't want to learn. So then I figured, I'm already learning a DAW, reaper, why not just knock up a MIDI drum track for a song, export it as MP3, and then play along to each one? It ties in with my need to use my drum kit as a midi trigger anyway, so two birds with one stone there.

The fingerstyle guitar snob purist in me squawked "You can't do that, you can't have any sound other than what your fingers and guitar is doing!" I've never done backing tracks or looping, and to be honest it's forced me to be a better guitarist - forced me to think outside the box to fill out a song, forced me to develop techniques for a rich guitar only sound. Maybe playing along to a drum track is a gateway drug, but my path of being "just a solo instrumental fingerstyle guitar player" has blurred over the years, I think there would be benefits in playing along to a drum track - firstly being a tighter rhythmist, and secondly a bit of enhancement to the music I play to audiences.

Saturday, 9 November 2024

Vox Pathfinder Bass 10

My mate Steve and I both have pieces of paper that say "Batchelor of Electronic Engineering", but neither of us do that for a living. We both however want to be able to say that we can actually work on electronics. For example, a while back I fixed a broken amp. So when a broken Vox Pathfinder Bass 10 fell into my hands I felt compelled to fix it.

I have however come to realise that I will only go so far. If it's not a broken wire, popped fuse or simple power supply issue, then it's going to take too long and I neither have the patience or equipment to really dig in deep. This amp was no simple fix. It had a weird distortion coming through. Steve however, he loves a challenge. And since this is just a little analogue amp, I threw it his way and he persisted until he fixed it.

During the, I'm going to guess hundreds of hours he spent debugging it, he produced an electrical schematic. It needs to be on the internet, so here is a pdf of the electrical schematic and here is a jpg.

A short discourse...it presented with some high mid/high frequency distortion on top of the expected signal. You could set the bass volume and the amp volume to reduce it, and if you played softly it wasn't too bad, but it was always there.

On first inspection Steve discovered a hole in one of the speakers which I hadn't noticed and sent it back. Seemed fair enough, that could cause noise. The speakers in there were a fairly non standard 5", I decided that some cheap 4" speakers from AliExpress would do the job. Put them in, no, distortion still there. and they were pretty rubbish. Without thinkng too hard I grabbed some slightly less cheap 6" speakers, and put them in with some slight hassle (they were a bit big, but I made them fit). Still distorting. I had concluded it wasn't the speakers and sent it back to Steve. He was not convinced and bought some not-so-cheap correctly fitting 5" speakers...still distorting.

During let's call it "the speaker phase" Steve mapped out a frequency response curve of the 4" (YH-1008) and 6" (YH-600) speakers, and for reference the sub speaker from his home theatre system. Remembering that the low E on a bass is around 40Hz you can see that the two cheapy speakers aren't great around there and don't really flatten out frequency reponse wise until over 100Hz. The sub speaker starts flattening out at 50Hz which is better, but we discovered that for bass amp design you really need to think about how you are going to get those low frequencies pumping air.

But the speakers proved to be a red herring.

Steve's equipment was struggling to show the nature of the distortion, which is kinda frustrating "I can hear it, but I can't see it". Looking at a bass guitar signal as it goes through the circuit, we could see that there seemed to be a few pixels of high frequence noise superimposed on sections of the waveform. But neither of us would declare "that was it". Steve, being persistent, then went to town replacing components.

Signal vs Opamp 1a
Maybe noisy?
Signal vs Opamp 1b
Inverted, looks fine!
Signal vs Opamp 2
Inverted, maybe noisy?
Signal vs power Opamp 3
Inverted, DC offset, some noise?

An interesting part of this amp design is that the power side is an opamp! That is, an Operational Amplifier, which is more of a circuit in a chip than just a transister/FET/tube valve. Opamps are great, because they have a pretty flat frequency response across the full spectrum, super high gain, super high input impedence...I didn't imagine a power opamp would be the power house behind an amp! There are some low power opamps in the circuit too, which are there to handle the overdrive circuit, the treble, mid and bass EQ signal adjustments.

Steve's experience with electronics makes him suspect capacitors every time. Because capacitors fail. He popped every single one of the board, and tested them. None were a problem.

He discovered that although the signal opamps and the power opamps were obsolete, there were equivalent replacements which he also swapped out. It was not a function of the opamp.

At this stage we were both scratching our heads. There wasn't much left to swap out. Something that he had noticed along the way is that the transformer power supply was being pulled down pretty hard, getting close to the minimum operating voltage for the power opamp. While the supply was within spec, after looking at what the opamps can handle voltage wise, he decided to buy a higher voltage transformer with a few more VAs too. The one he selected could fit in, it was right at the upper limit of the opamp capabilities, se he swapped out two resistors to ease back a little on the voltage.

Oh, and he grumbled a lot about the board. How 240VAC was intertwined with signal voltages, how there were so many links on the board and just a generally poor layout of the board, and how difficult it was to pull apart and put back together - that it, like so many things these days, is not designed to be easily serviced. Are you listening Vox?

Well Steve was right. With a new transformer kicking in a bit more juice, the distortion went away. Fixed. My take on this is that the power supply selection is build down to a price, and most of the time, when things are running to specification, it will work. But without a little bit of over-engineering in place, the moment the transformer had dropped a few VAs, some higher frequency weird opamp distortion crept in. Getting those opamps back up to plenty of voltage headspace, problem solved. Vox - spend a bit more money on parts!

Board Before Board Modified

Good work Steve! We both learnt something! Oh, and one other very cool thing I learnt - inside the unit were two LEDs back to back. "Why are there LEDs inside the unit, that will never be seen?" After staring at the circuit for a while, working from our electronics first principles knowledge Steve and I realised that as the "drive" level is turned up, the LED foward volt drop, probably around 2V, will start to kick in, which will begin to clip the waveform. As we know, if you raise the amplitude of a signal but then start to clip the peaks, you get both an additional loudness increase, and all those extra harmonics as it clips which brings more complexity to the sound. After reading up about it on the internet, aparently LEDs have quite a sonically pleasing soft-clipping sound rather than the much harder clipping found in other diodes!